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FASHION: DEIRDRE McQUILLANtalks to Amanda Pratt about the inspiration for Avocas autumn look IT COMES AS no surprise that Amanda Pratt paul smith handbags sale, creative director of Avoca, admits that Paul Smith is her greatest hero. Like him, she doesnt go down the traditional route for anything, preferring to find her inspiration from all sources paul smith holdall, particularly old fabrics and patterns. Elsa Schiaparelli (who was a customer of Avoca in the 1930s), another designer famous for her individuality, is a revered figure. Pratts ability to combine different colours, textures and patterns in a wayward, artistic way marks out her style as very much her own whether on a box, a cup or in a fashion garment. Its to do with knowing when something is too much or knowing when its too little, it has to do with balance, she says, sitting on the floor in her office, knee-deep in clothing samples. I always start with fabrics because that is my great love, she says, admitting that she haunts the VA in London several times a year. I was always in love with beautiful old clothes that have some resonance. I dont like throwing things away. I love the history in fabrics. Her creative responsibilities dont just end with the fashion collections she designs every year C spring 2013 is already out of the way and winter 2013 in progress C but includes everything from scarves to homewares, samples of which crowd the shelves in her office. Ninety per cent of what Avoca produces in these areas is exported, mainly to northern Europe but also further afield; the company has just received a 56,000 order for socks, for instance, from Anthropologie in the US and there is growing interest from Japan. The countries whose fashion really excites me are the UK and Japan, she says. Her scrapbooks in which she gathers ideas, images and fabrics for each season are a key to her design approach. I work on it at night at home, sitting in front of the fire when I have mental space. And I am completely paranoid about it. If I cant in the book, I cant do it in reality. The winter collection shown here, would have started on these pages. I comment on the buttons, always a noticeable feature, the latest made from old watches. Most people think of a button as something that just does something up C it is usually the last thing a designer thinks of, whereas I think of it like a piece of jewellery that adds something happy and unexpected. Buttons were special to our ancestors and were often a mark of position. I see them as surprising details. That element of humour and surprise has endeared her to the Japanese market and Japanese magazines sit on a rack alongside French Vogue and others. I love the Japanese aesthetic and their lack of fear of being different, particularly Japanese women. They like naivety rather than sexuality. We have been exporting there for the past four seasons, which means that at retail, Japan is selling 1.3 million worth of Avoca product. Now the giant Itochu Corporation, one of the worlds biggest, which brought Paul Smith, Vivienne Westwood and Jil Sander amongst others to Japan, wants to open an Avoca retail shop in the country. Pratt is heading there next month C she is already taking lessons in Japanese C and if successful, the venture will mark a major development for the Irish company which has seen a big jump in exports since September 2009 as well as a 64 per cent increase in online business in the last six months. Here in Ireland, however, most people associate Avoca with its caf and shops, the newest of which has just opened in Malahide Castle in north Dublin. Because of this, we are not really seen as an export business, says Pratt. I cant think of any others in Ireland doing what I am doing and exporting. We are not seen in Ireland as being a design-driven house and the area that I am passionate about is design. There is so much innovation going on here and to think that another nation like Japan Paul Smith iPhone 5 Case, whose people are so different, would think that Avoca would be exciting, would be a dream.

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Paul Smith is a label that has become synonymous with classic British tailoring and style. Inspired by the traditional British menswear he admired as young boy – such as his brother’s Post Office shirts and the tweeds of the Nottinghamshire country set – Smith’s greatest attribute is simplicity. He has described his designs as "well-made, good quality, simple cut, interesting fabric, easy to wear" and often adds a splash of vibrant colour, a floral print or his signature multi-coloured stripes.

Born in 1946 in Nottingham, England, Smith’s childhood ambition was to become a professional racing cyclist. He left school at 15 with no qualifications and began working in a Nottingham clothing warehouse as an errand boy. He relished his cycle to and from the warehouse each day until aged 17 he was in a serious accident and sustained injuries that put an end to his racing ambitions. Six months in hospital followed, during which Smith made friends with people from the local art college who would introduce him to the world of art and fashion.

Returning to his job at the warehouse, he used his newly acquired interest in art and fashion and began making displays for the showroom. Soon after, he was made menswear buyer.

Smith also started to take evening classes in tailoring in Nottinghamshire where he learned to cut cloth as well as the basics. Soon after, he joined Lincroft Kilgour in Savile Row after being spotted by chairman Harold Tillman, where his designs were worn by celebrities including footballer George Best.

Paul Smith now has 15 shops and concessions in the UK and 200 shops worldwide, in markets including Japan, Paris paul smith shop, Milan, New York and Hong Kong. The business, still based in his native Nottingham, has turnover of £325million. As chairman and designer, Sir Paul is still involved in every aspect of it.

Known for his positive outlook on business and life, Smith has become a key figure of the British fashion industry. Although he is an internationally celebrated fashion artist nowadays, Smith is known to have remained very much down to earth. He frequently visits his shops, talks to customers, and learns about his clientele’s needs.

• In 1969, Smith met his wife-to-be Pauline Denyer, then a fashion design student at the Royal College of Art. With Denyer’s encouragement he opened his first shop called Paul Smith Vêtement Pour Homme on 10 Byard Lane paul smith uk, Nottingham in 1970. It was the only shop outside London to sell labels like Kenzo and Margaret Howell paul smith outlet, and Smith soon started selling pieces that he had designed himself and had made up by local manufacturers. "That first shop was only 12ft square and I thought, "There’s not much to see. Why would anyone come?" So I’d always have a poster from the Pompidou Centre to sell, or three school notebooks from a trip to Greece," Smith told the Telegraph in 2008.
• By 1976 Paul showed his first menswear collection in Paris, under the Paul Smith label. He gradually expanded the retail business, being the first fashion brand to open on Floral Street in London’s Covent Garden in 1979. His shop offered an eclectic combination of clothes and finds for men which reflected his own magpie personality.
• The designer opened his second London store in 1982, his third in 1983 and fourth in 1987 – the same year he unveiled his first New York boutique.
• In 1990, Smith created his first children’s collection.
• After discovering that 15 per cent of his clothes were bought by women, who were attracted to his modern use of fine and classic materials, he first introduced a women’s collection in 1993. In the same year, Smith took over the traditional (established in 1885), but bankrupt workwear company R. Newbold and quickly incorporated many of their famous cuts into his collection.
• He received a CBE in 1994 for his services to the British fashion industry.
• In 1995, Paul Smith Limited was awarded The Queen’s Award for Industry for export achievement. In the same year, London-based Design Museum opened a retrospective of Smith’s 25 years of work in the fashion business, calledTrue Brit, marking the first time the renowned museum devoted an entire exhibition to a single fashion designer.
• He was awarded the Honorary Freedom of the City of Nottingham in February 1996.
• In 2000, Smith was awarded a knighthood, an accolade that until then had only been bestowed upon one designer – Hardy Amies. On the same day he wed Pauline, his partner of 30 years.
• In October 2001, Smith published his first book, entitledYou Can Find Inspiration in Everything.The tome was described by Smith as his"brain on to the page".
• In May 2002, Smith accessorised the England team for their World Cup matches in Japan and Korea. Working with the FA and Umbro he designed a selection of leather wallets, cufflinks, shoes, eyewear, watches and luggage.
• He won Menswear Designer of the Year and Women’s Contemporary Designer of the Year at the British Style Awards in 2003.
• In September 2004, Paul Smith was named Designer of the Year for the fourth year running at theGQMen of the Year awards. "I am absolutely delighted paul smith belt," he said. "It’s a really genuine honour."
• In February 2007, Smith was awarded an honorary fellowship of the Royal Institute of British Architects – an organisation that rewards outstanding contributions made to the world of art, design and architecture. The lifetime accolade is handed out to just ten people annually. "Receiving the honorary fellowship is a real honour," said Smith. "I am both shocked and delighted because RIBA is an association that I really admire, and architecture is very close to my heart."
• Smith admires the work of Yves Saint Laurent. "I was fortunate enough to see some of Yves Saint Laurent’s first haute couture shows in his Paris salon – one in particular I remember was in homage to the Vietnam War and it was all in black. Then he did the famous see-through blouse in clear silk chiffon. The audience literally took a mass in-take of breath – as if we’d been watching a firework display. Obviously the fact that he pioneered le smoking for women proved how modern his thinking was," he said on his VOGUE.COM blog in 2008.
• Since May 2008, he has contributed to VOGUE.COM as a guest blogger.
• Despite his earlier accident, Smith has maintained his interest in cycling and is an avid follower of professional racers. He dressed professional cyclists and Olympic winners Sir Chris Hoy and Bradley Wiggins CBE for their various official engagements, following their successes at the 2008 Beijing games.
• In May 2009 Sir Paul Smith dressed football team Manchester United ahead of their Champions League Final against Barcelona. He created two suits – one in a grey Prince of Wales check and the other in black wool – which both featured specially created red lining and stripe piping, accompanied by a black raincoat and luggage set for each player. "It is exciting to be involved with Manchester United," Sir Paul Smith said. "They have such an international fan base and I know our customers in Japan, Korea, Hong Kong – in fact all South East Asia paul smith london, Europe and the US – will be interested in the partnership. It has been an honour designing and supplying suits for the team."
• In 2010 Smith was honoured at the Condé Nast TravellerInnovation and Design Awards.
• He launched Paul Smith Junior in the autumn of 2010. Staying true to his unique vision showcasing a bright, punchy colour palette and silhouettes inspired by the men’s and women’s catwalk offerings. "It is really exciting to return to designing clothes for babies and children. It is 10 years since we had a children’s collection which we stopped because we literally could not keep up with the workload due to the business of our men’s and women’s collections," said Sir Paul Smith.
• Despite being one of the most financially successful fashion businessmen in the world, Smith has spoken many times about his hatred of society’s pursuit of wealth. "The obsessive pursuit of status, wealth and power has done much to drag ambition’s reputation into the mud," Smith asserted to VOGUE.COM in 2010."And nowhere has this been truer than in the banking industry, where ambition has curdled into greed."
• Smith takes a more relaxed approach to his business: "My top tip is to take it slow. Life is a joy. You don’t have to be rich and famous straight away. Take it easy, grow gently and you’ll have a lovely life," Smith told VOGUE.COM in 2010.
• Dedicated to his work, Smith as spoken of his struggle with taking time off. "I’m not very good at relaxing," he has admitted. "When I was on holiday in the summer I kept ringing the girls in the office and they said to me ‘Paul what are you doing?’ Holidays just go on for too long – I don’t know what to do with myself. I don’t get much time off but I’m so privileged. I don’t think of work as work – it’s just another part of life. The artist John Coulson said once ‘It’s not what you take out, it’s what you take in’ and I like that saying."
• Paul is well-known for his love of collecting. A self-confessed hoarder, his Covent Garden office is filled with art, books paul smith bags, sports memorabilia, toys and objects sent to him by fans from all over the world. "Occasionally, I’ll relegate toys to the basement room, known as the Department of Silly. It houses innumerable wacky items, a vast collection of rabbits in various forms and sizes – the result of a throwaway remark I once made about them bringing me good luck. Now I get sent between 10 and 20 a week, and was even presented with a real, live one seconds before the start of a Paris fashion show – one of life’s more surreal moments," he said in October 2010.
• He is a keen photographer and has photographed many of his campaigns himself. In September 2010, he presented a collection of photographs of The Royal Ballet’s Principle Dancers, which he later exhibited at his Albemarle shop.
• In September 2011, Smith designed a limited edition copy of John Le Carré’s novel, Tinker, Tailor, Soldier, Spy paul smith iphone 4 case, featuring a design from his collection of limited edition screen printed posters, in conjunction with the release of the film adaptation. Only 250 copies have been made, making it a collector’s item for fans of the author and the film.
• In October 2011 Smith was shortlisted for the 2011 Prince Philip Designer’s Prize.
• He has released several fragrances including Extreme paul smith sale, Paul Smith London, Floral and STORY.
• Smith has been involved in numerous collaborations, including those with Cappellini furniture (2002), Oakley sunglasses, Burton snowboards (2005), Mercian bikes (2006) and Triumph motorbikes (2005).

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